Ohio Atlatl Association Events Schedule for 2011

Posting a tentative 2011 Ohio Atlatl Association list of events (dates and places) from Debbie Andrews, Ray Strischek, Mamerto Tindongan, and Steve Barnett…
  • 4/17 (Sunday)  Wooster
  • 4/30 Leo Petroglyph
  • 5/13  Lake Hope
  • 6/4  Athens Library
  • 6/10-13  Fort Firelands
  • 6/24-25  Athens Library
  • 7/15-17  Flint Ridge
  • 8/12  That Dam ISAC
  • 8/13-14 Albany Riding Club
  • 9/2-4  Flint Ridge
  • 9/16-18  PawPaw Festival
  • 10/7-9 Hocking Hills PowWow
  • 10/15 Hopewell Discovery Days (not yet confirmed)
  • 10/28-29  ROAR
Contact us if you have questions!
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Holding and Throwing Atlatl Darts

I was thinking about throwing and holding style recently and happened upon a couple of good articles I wanted to share…

The image above is a pretty good representation of the problems of teaching people how to throw with an atlatl without a dart rest. As you can see in the picture, as the throwing motion begins, the dart flexes upward. The most common mistake people using an atlatl without a dart rest make is to hang a finger over the top of the dart (like a saddle on a horse) and not let go soon enough. Even a person who rightly just holds the dart with the tips of a finger and a thumb can hang on too long. The person above waited to long to release the dart. She should have let the dart loose before her elbow passed her face or more to the point, just as soon as she started the forward throwing motion. To the good, she is not dropping her elbow.

Source: http://heritageedu.wordpress.com/

The “Right” Way to Hold a Dart with a Non-Dart Rest Atlatl

Hold Dart Atlatl Rest

Note the dart itself is resting on the three fingers and held in place using the tips of the one finger and thumb. The trick is to hold just tight enough to be able to keep the dart on the spur until the forward motion begins … then let go, let the dart slip out from between the tips of the finger and thumb as soon as the forward throwing motion begins.

Source: http://www.lancasterarchery.com/index.php?cPath=38_77

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Tools for Making Atlatls: The Shinto Rasp and Horseshoe File

If you sculpt wood for whatever reason, you’ll tend to need a tool that takes off a good amount of matter and can also navigate slight angles.  When I make an atlatl, I start with cut blanks that I glue together and end up with zero right angles.  I swear by the shinto rasp, horseshoe file, and a heck of a lot of sanding to get these forms.

The Shinto Rasp

Shinto Rasp

This wood carving tool, named after the indigenous spirituality of the Japanese people,  is perfect for making/shaping atlatls.  (I’ve had a few spiritual moments with it, myself.)  It consist of many hack saw blades welded together in a network.  It has a coarse side and a fine side.  A Google Images search for “shinto rasp” will reveal many pictures of it in various forms and two sizes — big and small. This is a good way to find one to buy, as well…

Note:  I buy only the replacement blade and not the whole rasp/handle combination. I find the handle to be clumsy and something of an overkill. If you have tender fingers, wear a glove.

The replacement rasp should be available for around $20.00,  they last for a long time.  The only thing better than a shinto rasp for taking off wood in a hurry is a horseshoe file. However, I find that the shinto rasp is more maneuverable on round or small projects.

The Horseshoe File

Horseshoe File or Horseshoe Rasp

I use the horseshoe file (or “horseshoe rasp”) to file down atlatl shafts to make them flexible. You can find them for sale on Amazon.com or Google Shopping.

They last a long time even if you are thinning harder woods like Purple Heart, Rosewood, Osage, Hickory, or any other “dense, heavy, fine-grain, needs-sharp-tools” kind of wood.

You can get a handle for these things, but why bother?  Got tender fingers?  Awww… Wear a glove. After you have worn this thing out, get a charcoal grill, an anvil, and a heavy hammer and make a sword out of it.

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Hopewell Discovery Day

This weekend Ray Strischek had a good time demonstrating the atlatl to kids.  It was Hopewell Discovery Day — Chillicothe, Ohio.

This year’s Hopewell Discovery Day had ranger-led earthwork tours, meet-and-greets with archaeologists, kids’ activities, flint knapping and atlatl — or spear-throwing — demonstrations.

More at The Chillicothe Gazette

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Carbon Tubing Atlatl Dart Construction

Saw this great Carbon Fiber Tube Dart How-To.

These instructions are good for anyone wanting to make a dart with arrow shafts made of carbon tubing. However, as followed, the dart will only be two arrow shafts long.  The instructions can be amended by the reader just by adding a third 1/2 section of carbon tubing to make a 6 foot or even 7 foot long dart.  I believe that would be a better construction.

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Aluminum Atlatl Dart Construction

I saw this great Aluminum Dart How-To at Thud’s Cave.

These instructions are good for anyone wanting to make an aluminum dart out of aluminum arrows.  However, the dart made will be short.  To make a longer dart, the reader merely needs to use the same instructions and add a third half section of aluminum arrow shaft to make a 6 or even 7 foot long dart, which would be better for an adult.  The darts made following the instructions as written would be a good length for school age children ages 6 to 13.

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NYT: Hunting with Atlatls

Cory here.  Go read this story in the U.S. section of The New York Times today about hunting with the atlatl.

Brief interviews therein with Arron Hendershott (Missouri Deparment of Conservation), Ron Mertz (Missouri Atlatl Association), John Whittaker (anthropologist at Grinnell College), Gene Morris (museum curator in Alabama), and Ray Madden (somehow killed a squirrel with an atlatl) target the issues of hunting with the atlatl and the possible heritage of spear dart throwing.  We’ve pondered atlatl hunting on this blog before.  Funny headline too.  I’m not sure what “heritage” there is to atlatlism either.  But, sadly, Malcolm Gay didn’t provide much description of atlatling as a sport of accuracy or sculpting craft. Those are the biggies for us, at least.

Oh well, maybe next time!  Dear pioneers of journalism — we’re happy to provide high-resolution images and rambling interviews.  Just let us know.

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Atlatl Dart Questions from a Reader

How did you settle on the 6’10″ darts?

Ray here: I found out by trial and error that longer darts are easier to control as regards accuracy.  Its a matter of kinetic flexibility.  Shorter darts are springy, flex out, flex back in a hurry.  This means any slight change in throwing speed results in an immediate hyper reaction with dart flex.  Longer darts are less kinetic and tend to allow slight changes in throwing motion to have little effect in their flexing motion.

Aluminum and carbon darts are hyper kinetic compared to bamboo and river cane.  Bamboo is slightly more kinetic than river cane.

How do you match weight/lenght? I take a river cane about the right size, put duct tape on for fletching, put on a point and start throwing it. They are almost always too limber, so I start cutting them down little by little til they fly good, then I feather fletch. I guess that is what I meant by tuning.

Ray here: I choose dart shaft stock (bamboo or river cane) first by length, then by diameter at the base and rear end. Total length of the dart shaft is about 6 feet long with a foreshaft 12 inches long (with two inches of the foreshaft inside the cane), thus 6’10″” overall length.

I look for the base to be a little less than 5/8 of an inch in diameter (narrow enough that when string and glue is added it can still slide through the WAA’s maximum allowable diameter for the ISAC competition).  The rear end needs to be 3/8 of an inch in diameter.

If you start with a 7 foot or 8 foot length of bamboo or river cane, you can probably get exactly what you need for a 6 foot length.

River cane and bamboo grow naturally into a dart shaft that is thicker and heavier at one end than the other and therefore, after adding a 12 inch foreshaft and 1 1/2 long 1/4 inch diameter copper point, I don’t need to adjust the dart shaft for balance as mother nature has already done the work for me.

Bamboo and river cane are not cloned, therefore each is a little different.  I like my darts to be a little stiff. The way I check the dart for the right amount of stiffness is to hold the dart shaft horizontally chest high,  hold the narrow in of the dart in one hand, reach out about two feet with the other hand and wag the loose big end up and done briskly but not wildly.  If the loose end travels up and down between 12 to 18 inches, that’s what I want.  If it wags greater than 18 inches, its too limber.  If it wags less than 12 inches, its too stiff.

Mine are all under 5′- 6′. I have trouble matching them weight/lenght, I know this is important for consistancy. Mine all weigh 3-4 oz.

Ray here: I think I pretty much described how I choose dart lengths and diameters above. As far as matching, I may straighten 12 dart shafts (all the same length and diameter)  before I find 3 that are a matched set as far as stiffness and overall balance and weight are concerned. That is just the nature of beast. Seek and straighten and ye shall find. Out of the 12 dart shaft, if I am lucky, I will find 2 or 3 sets of 3 dart shafts that are well matched.  My darts are on average about 6 ounces in weight.

Also is there a picture of how you grip the atlatl with the hole in the handle?

Ray here: Check it out here:

Hand Grip for single hole atlatl

Hand Grip for single hole atlatl

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Atlatl Dart Points Revisited

I’ve written about this before. I use copper points. Each of my darts are bamboo or river cane and have a 12 inch X 1/2 inch diameter poplar foreshaft. I use 1/4 inch diameter copper rods to make my points. I pound one end of a 1 1/2 inch long piece of copper rod flat, use a cold chisel to cut a point shape into the flatten end, and file it sharp. I drill a 1/4 inch diameter hole into one end of the foreshaft, use a rasp to cone shape the end, glue and insert the rod end of the copper point into the drilled hole, and glue the wood around the point, wrap it cotton string, spread glue on the string, then spin the glued surface into a folded paper towel to smooth it out. After it dries, I glue and insert the other end of the foreshaft into the big end of the dart shaft.

For a better copper point, see http://www.atlatl-darts.com/darts.htm This is AJ Bagg’s web site. He sells bullet swaged copper points that are real easy to mount for about $3 each.

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Balance Point of an Atlatl Dart

Fletched darts need only have a balance point that is 6 to 8 inches forward of center. The 2/3 thing applies to unfletched darts. An unfletched dart will fish tail through the air unless the balance point is 2/3 forward. Such a dart, having so much of its weight forward of center will be “point end heavy” and will tend to drop like a rock, need a higher trajectory of flight to get to the target. The purpose of the fletching is to make the dart’s flight more stable. The bigger the fletching, the more stable the flight, but, the bigger the fletching, the slower the flight, so, eventually, if the fletching is too big, you get the same result of having to have a higher trajectory to the target.

My fletching (feathers) are 10 inches long, by 1 1/2 inches wide. This gives me a flat trajectory flight at 15 meters, while I have to aim 6 inches above the bullseye at 20 meters, and 1 foot above the entire target at 25 meters. My darts are 6 feet, 10 inches long, and weigh about 6 ounces.

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