A Different Kind of Dart Rest

The dart rest is made of two pieces of rawhide or one big piece doubled over and held together with a wrapping of string or sinew part way to the ends. The dart is slip into between the two unwrapped ends which grip the dart just enough to hold it in place but not tight enough to prevent its release during the throwing motion. These atlatls are attributed to “Mike” but his last name is not given on the web site. Hell, Mike could be the dog. I left a comment on the web page with my email address. Hope I get a response.

From Baggis, on Flickr

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On “Atl atl replicate study” by Jim Dunbar

This article explores various dart foreshaft/point assemblies and their ability to hold up (or not) being propelled by an atlatl into a palm tree. Of interest is the sticking of the foreshaft inside the dart shaft on humid days.  The purpose of the socket-ed foreshaft was to allow the dart shaft to slip off the foreshaft when it hit an animal so that the hunter could retrieve the fallen dart shaft and insert another foreshaft for another throw, thus be able to go on the hunt with a light load of only two or three dart shafts and a half dozen extra foreshafts.

“Atl atl replicate study” by Jim Dunbar

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Carbon Tubing Atlatl Dart Construction

Saw this great Carbon Fiber Tube Dart How-To.

These instructions are good for anyone wanting to make a dart with arrow shafts made of carbon tubing. However, as followed, the dart will only be two arrow shafts long.  The instructions can be amended by the reader just by adding a third 1/2 section of carbon tubing to make a 6 foot or even 7 foot long dart.  I believe that would be a better construction.

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Aluminum Atlatl Dart Construction

I saw this great Aluminum Dart How-To at Thud’s Cave.

These instructions are good for anyone wanting to make an aluminum dart out of aluminum arrows.  However, the dart made will be short.  To make a longer dart, the reader merely needs to use the same instructions and add a third half section of aluminum arrow shaft to make a 6 or even 7 foot long dart, which would be better for an adult.  The darts made following the instructions as written would be a good length for school age children ages 6 to 13.

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Atlatl Dart Questions from a Reader

How did you settle on the 6’10″ darts?

Ray here: I found out by trial and error that longer darts are easier to control as regards accuracy.  Its a matter of kinetic flexibility.  Shorter darts are springy, flex out, flex back in a hurry.  This means any slight change in throwing speed results in an immediate hyper reaction with dart flex.  Longer darts are less kinetic and tend to allow slight changes in throwing motion to have little effect in their flexing motion.

Aluminum and carbon darts are hyper kinetic compared to bamboo and river cane.  Bamboo is slightly more kinetic than river cane.

How do you match weight/lenght? I take a river cane about the right size, put duct tape on for fletching, put on a point and start throwing it. They are almost always too limber, so I start cutting them down little by little til they fly good, then I feather fletch. I guess that is what I meant by tuning.

Ray here: I choose dart shaft stock (bamboo or river cane) first by length, then by diameter at the base and rear end. Total length of the dart shaft is about 6 feet long with a foreshaft 12 inches long (with two inches of the foreshaft inside the cane), thus 6’10″” overall length.

I look for the base to be a little less than 5/8 of an inch in diameter (narrow enough that when string and glue is added it can still slide through the WAA’s maximum allowable diameter for the ISAC competition).  The rear end needs to be 3/8 of an inch in diameter.

If you start with a 7 foot or 8 foot length of bamboo or river cane, you can probably get exactly what you need for a 6 foot length.

River cane and bamboo grow naturally into a dart shaft that is thicker and heavier at one end than the other and therefore, after adding a 12 inch foreshaft and 1 1/2 long 1/4 inch diameter copper point, I don’t need to adjust the dart shaft for balance as mother nature has already done the work for me.

Bamboo and river cane are not cloned, therefore each is a little different.  I like my darts to be a little stiff. The way I check the dart for the right amount of stiffness is to hold the dart shaft horizontally chest high,  hold the narrow in of the dart in one hand, reach out about two feet with the other hand and wag the loose big end up and done briskly but not wildly.  If the loose end travels up and down between 12 to 18 inches, that’s what I want.  If it wags greater than 18 inches, its too limber.  If it wags less than 12 inches, its too stiff.

Mine are all under 5′- 6′. I have trouble matching them weight/lenght, I know this is important for consistancy. Mine all weigh 3-4 oz.

Ray here: I think I pretty much described how I choose dart lengths and diameters above. As far as matching, I may straighten 12 dart shafts (all the same length and diameter)  before I find 3 that are a matched set as far as stiffness and overall balance and weight are concerned. That is just the nature of beast. Seek and straighten and ye shall find. Out of the 12 dart shaft, if I am lucky, I will find 2 or 3 sets of 3 dart shafts that are well matched.  My darts are on average about 6 ounces in weight.

Also is there a picture of how you grip the atlatl with the hole in the handle?

Ray here: Check it out here:

Hand Grip for single hole atlatl

Hand Grip for single hole atlatl

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“Tuning” an Atlatl Dart Shaft

One does not actually “tune” a dart shaft. Many people feel that a dart has a “spine” and that it is important to establish where the spine is and align the bi-face point and the fletchings to the spine.

First, the “spine”.  Think 2 X 4 board. A good carpenter will tell you to align the 2 X 4 stud “crown up” when laying out a wall, meaning, you hold one end of the board up to your eye, look down the board and determine which edge side is curving.  (All 2 X 4 boards curve a little.) The object of this game is to put the curve on the outside of the wall.

The same is true with river cane or bamboo darts. Try as you might, you can never get them perfectly straight. They will always curve a little.  This curve is the “spine” and you should always load the dart into your atlatl with the curved or spine side up. Most people use three feathers on their darts, sometimes with two of the same color and one different. The single different feather should be placed on the curved spine side of the dart so that you know right off the bat which way to load the dart onto your atlatl.   Likewise, the two bladed dart point should be attached so that blades are perpendicular to the “spine”, or so I am told.

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Atlatls and Darts for Sale!

Atlatl for saleJust uploaded a bunch of premium atlatls and darts to our Etsy store!

20 more $20 beginner atlatls are on the way … 8 more $40 oak/poplar beginner atlatls too.

Here are some pictures.  Pretty proud of how these turned out…

Osage Orange Atlatl

SNEAK PEAK!!!

Here are some new styles I’ve been working on…

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Glue for Wood Atlatls and Bamboo Darts

photo from flickr user iamsalad -- thanks!

I use PC-7 glue to make my wood atlatls and bamboo or river cane darts. It helps to attach parts that need to be flexible … but eternally united — like where the handle of my atlatl meets its shaft or where the point of my dart meets its shaft.

PC-7 looks dark grey/green when it sets.  It comes in two cans; mix the two together on a piece of cardboard in equal amounts with a pop-sickle stick flatened at one end. You will need a roll of paper towels handy. The glue is a fudge consistency and does not run or shrink or expand. Dries hard but can be rasped and sanded like wood after it dries. Takes 12 hours to cure. If you come back to it after six hours it is firm enough (like rubber) to cut with a knife or have the excess removed with a scrapper.

I also use strips of duct tape to hold pieces of glued wood together until they are dried, rather than clamps. The roll of duct tape is 1/2 inches wide but you can tear 1/2 inch wide strips off easily enough.

I use the glue on both atlatls and darts…

If you look at my darts, you can see I use string covered with PC-7 glue to firm up the point attachment to the foreshaft, and the again at the receiving end of the dart where the foreshaft enters the dart, and at the end of the dart where spur of atlatl meets dart. Just wrap a strip of duct tape around the shaft where you want the glue to stop. Put the glue on, wrap the string around the glue, then using a folded paper towel, spin the glued shaft lightly into the paper towel to smooth everything up and remove the excess wet glue. PC-7 is absolutely waterproof and dries strong as a rock. Its like putting a cast on a broken arm.

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New Atlatls Coming Soon!

If you’re looking to buy an atlatl, please bookmark this site and our Etsy site.   Last year’s inventory sold quick!

Ray’s been freezing his fingertips off working in the woodshop through the recent Snowmageddons and Snowpocalypses and we’re gearing up to sell off another volley of Ray Strischek atlatls and bamboo river cane atlatl darts very soon … just in time to practice up for Flint Ridge and all the other events this coming summer.  (Although it’s looking like a new Ice Age is upon us … perfect for the atlatlist!)

Also, if you’re looking for a custom atlatl, please feel free to let us know by using our contact form on this site.   We’ve done it before and we could be persuaded to do it again!

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Get Some Copper Points for Your Atlatl Darts

Alan Bagg has a website now!

… and you can buy his atlatl dart points there!

It’s still a bit under construction but you can see two important details:

  1. “1 Plink Dart = $18″
  2. How to contact Alan: atlbagg@yahoo.com

Alan Bagg is “Atlatl-Darts by AJ”

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